Please click on an FAQ link below to view information regarding that question.   Question: How do I take a Hydrometer reading?   Answer: First locate the correct scale. On a triple scale hydrometer (the model that comes in all of our equipment kits) you are looking for one that reads 1.000 and up. You should take two readings; the first one should be taken before you pitch the yeast into your wort. First sanitize your equipment; the hydrometer test jar, and a pair of tongs. Hold the test jar with the tongs and dip the jar into your fermentation bucket until it’s about an inch or so from the top of the jar. (If your primary fermentation vessel is a carboy or better bottle, the Fermtech Wine Thief is perfect for taking samples.) Next, pour the sample between the test jar and a glass until there is no foaming. This will eliminate any CO2 that may be present and skew the reading. Now, slowly submerge the hydrometer and let it come to rest. The place to take the reading from is the meniscus, which is the lowest point of the top of the liquid. You can get the hydrometer to come to rest there by gently spinning it like a top. Your reading will probably be in the 1.040 to 1.120 range, depending on the style of beer brewed. This also may vary on the temperature of the sample. Hydrometer readings are best taken if the sample is at 70 degrees F, but you may take a reading at a different temperature, then consult a conversion chart, such as the one included in “The Brewmaster's Bible” by Stephen Snyder. Then either taste the sample or toss it; never pour it back into your beer. The second reading should be taken after primary fermentation is complete. See next FAQ, "How do I determine the alcohol content of my brew?" for details on the second hydrometer reading.   Question: How do I determine the alcohol content of my brew?   Answer: Simple subtraction. Take a hydrometer reading right before you pitch the yeast into your wort (see “How do I take a hydrometer reading?” in FAQs). Make a note of this reading, which should be in the range between 1.040 and 1.080, depending on the recipe and style you are brewing. After the fermentation is complete, take another hydrometer reading right before you bottle. Be sure you take your reading BEFORE you add the priming sugar, as this will skew the reading. This reading will usually fall between 1.010 and 1.030, again depending on the recipe and style. Then you simply subtract the second reading from the first, and consult a conversion chart (such as the one found in “The Brewmaster’s Bible”, or many other homebrewing books) to determine the alcohol content. Let’s say that your starting gravity was 1.042, and your terminal gravity was 1.010. This makes a difference of 0.32. Looking this up in the conversion chart will tell you that your brew is 4.1% A.B.V. (alcohol by volume).   Question: Is there a simple formula for determining alcohol content without consulting a table?   Answer: All you need to determine alcohol content is the original or starting gravity and the final gravity. Just drop the decimal points, subtract the smaller one from the bigger, and divide by 7.5. For example, If your starting gravity is 1.055, and your final gravity is 1.010, you would have 1055 - 1010 = 45 divided by 7.5 = 6% alcohol.   Question: What is pH and why is it significant in brewing?   Answer: The pH scale describes how acidic or basic (alkaline) a solution is. The scale ranges from 0-14: 7.0 is neutral; less than 7.0 is acidic, becoming more so as it heads toward 0.0; greater than 7.0 is alkaline, becoming more so as it heads toward 14.0. Its measurement is affected by temperature. The pH of a solution at 150 degrees F will be .35 less than at 65 degrees F. For example if a 150-degree mash had a pH of 5.4 then a reading at 65 degrees F would indicate a pH of 5.75. The enzymes in the mash responsible for converting starch to sugar work optimally at a pH of 5.2-5.6. Thus it is of the utmost importance to the all-grain brewer that he/she is cognizant of his/her mash pH if optimal efficiency is to be achieved. Likewise hop utilization is also affected by pH level. The best wort pH for optimum hop utilization is between 5.0-5.4. A measure of pH of the brewing water will not give a measure of what the mash pH will be. The mineral content, particularly calcium, is more influential than the apparent pH of the brewing water. Your pH can be approximately measured using "pH papers" or "pH meters." Remember that pH papers are accurate only at room temperature so hot water samples must be cooled before the reading is taken. Also many pH meters work this way as well especially the more inexpensive ones.   Question: What is the ideal storing temperature for my ales and lagers?   Answer: Your main concerns here are heat and sunlight—both bad for your brew. Heat can cause oxidation, which results in a stale, cardboard-like taste. If your house does not have air conditioning, we suggest storing your beer on the floor of your basement during the summer months, or in the refrigerator. Most people keep their house at around 68 degrees, which is fine for storing your beer. Just keep it out of direct sunlight. You may also store your brew in the refrigerator, if you have the space, ideally between 34 and 40 degrees. Lagers, on the other hand, should always be refrigerated if possible. For the first two weeks after bottling, they should be kept at the same temperature you had it at for primary fermentation, so that the carbonation can take place. After that, the colder the better, so long as its above freezing. It's a good idea to keep your beer at constant storage temperature, so as not to take your beer through a roller coaster ride of extreme temperatures. As a happy medium, 50-55°F is a good long-term storage temperature range for your ales.